Treat the Well as a Mini Roof Drain
An egress window well is a collection basin unless it has a controlled path for water to leave. Start by grading soil away from the foundation at 5% for at least 10 feet where possible, then build the well as a rigid collar (galvanized steel or concrete) with sealed fasteners and a continuous flashing transition to the wall waterproofing. Place 6–8 inches of washed stone over a geotextile at the well floor so fines don’t clog the drain pathway, and keep the stone layer flat so the ladder sits stable for code-compliant egress.
Primary & Secondary Drain Paths
The most reliable approach is a perforated drain stub from the well floor that ties into the home’s footing drain (exterior) or an interior French drain connected to a sealed sump (interior retrofit). Add a backflow check on the discharge line and, in flood-prone blocks, a shutoff/union for service. If you cannot create a gravity path, specify a small well pump with a screened intake and high-water alarm—but treat this as a last resort, not the primary design.
Keep the Well Clean & Dry
Top the well with a clear, load-rated cover that sheds rain yet lifts easily from inside for emergency escape. Integrate a debris screen so leaves don’t blanket the drain field. Inside the well, step/ladder rungs must be unobstructed; use anti-slip treads and corrosion-resistant hardware. Seal the window buck to the water-resistive barrier with compatible tapes and a pan flashing so intrusion can’t bypass the well entirely.
Thermal & Moisture Edge Cases
Cold exterior wells make interior surfaces chilly: insulate the below-grade wall with continuous foam and consider low-e glazing to cut radiant chill. Add leak and humidity sensors below the sill to catch issues early. Finally, photograph the assembly before backfill and record elevations for future reference.
For drawings that coordinate wells, drains, and slab vapor control, see our NYC basement waterproofing and egress drainage.