Flash First, Then Insulate and Seal
Begin outside with manufacturer pan flashing kits, continuous underlayment, and correctly sequenced drip edge so wind-driven rain can’t back up. Verify slope requirements and avoid placing units where intersecting valleys complicate drainage. Once watertight outside, focus inside: build straight, smooth shafts and line them with continuous insulation (rigid or spray foam) to eliminate cold surfaces that drive condensation.
Air Barrier Continuity
Carry the interior air barrier right up the shaft: tape or seal membranes to the skylight frame per manufacturer guidance, then use airtight trims. Box and gasket any fixtures in the shaft, and keep can lights out of the cavity if possible—use surface or wafer LEDs to minimize penetrations.
Thermal and Glare Control
Specify low-U, low-SHGC laminated glazing to cut heat loss and summer gain. Integrate blackout or light-filtering shades (manual or motorized) to manage sleep and screen time; matte, light-reflective finishes at the shaft bounce daylight deeper without hotspots.
Ventilation and Commissioning
In baths, never terminate exhaust into the shaft or soffits—duct outdoors with insulated, smooth runs and backdraft dampers. After finishes, hose-test the exterior and check for drafts under a blower-door to catch misses before move-in. Document cut sheets, glazing ratings, and maintenance steps in the turnover packet.
Step-by-step skylight detailing lives in our Attic Remodeling Service waterproofing & moisture guide.