Waterproofing & Moisture Control

Start with a Bulletproof Perimeter Eaves and roof-to-wall joints are the most common leak points in finished attics. Sequence drip edge over ice-and-water shield at eaves, then underlayment laps correctly up-slope; at sidewalls and dormer cheeks, use step flashing layered with WRB counterflashing, never face-sealed caulk alone. Extend self-adhered membrane at valleys and around penetrations,...

Design a Fully Contained Wet Zone In an attic ensuite, moisture loads are concentrated and close to the roof deck. Build the shower as a tank: slope the pan (1/4″ per foot) to a linear drain, wrap floors and walls with a bonded waterproofing membrane, and flood-test before tile. Use cement board (not green board)...

Flash First, Then Insulate and Seal Begin outside with manufacturer pan flashing kits, continuous underlayment, and correctly sequenced drip edge so wind-driven rain can’t back up. Verify slope requirements and avoid placing units where intersecting valleys complicate drainage. Once watertight outside, focus inside: build straight, smooth shafts and line them with continuous insulation (rigid or...

Moisture Control Begins at the Roof Deck In a conditioned attic, unvented roof assemblies can deliver excellent comfort and airtightness—if they’re detailed to keep the roof sheathing safely above the dew point. The core principle is continuous insulation + continuous air barrier. Start by confirming roof structure and sheathing condition; repair soft spots, verify fastener...

Continuous Air Barrier + Correct Vapor Control Mold feeds on moisture and air leaks. Begin with a continuous air barrier across ceilings, knee walls, and skylight shafts; seal penetrations with tapes/mastics and gasketed boxes. Choose vapor-smart membranes on the warm side of unvented roofs so assemblies can dry seasonally. Insulation Ratios and Thermal Bridges In...

Start at the Roof Edge Moisture control begins outside: healthy shingles or membrane, solid sheathing, and meticulous flashing at valleys, dormers, and penetrations. At eaves, continuous ice-and-water shield plus correct drip edge sequencing helps stop wind-driven rain and ice dam back-ups. Clean gutters and direct downspouts away from the foundation so bulk water cycles don’t...

Start at the Roof, Then Work Inward The best attic is dry from the outside in. Verify roof health before finishes: intact shingles or membrane, sound sheathing, and flawless flashing at penetrations, dormers, valleys, and chimneys. In snow-prone seasons, proper insulation and air sealing at the roofline reduce ice dams, while a continuous ice-and-water shield...

Preventing water damage is one of the highest priorities for general contractors working on New York kitchen remodels, especially in co-ops and condos where a single leak can impact multiple units. Contractors start by using licensed plumbers to replace old supply and waste lines with modern, durable materials such as copper or PEX. Shut-off valves...

Modern New York kitchen renovations rely on advanced waterproofing methods to protect apartments from costly water damage. One common solution is the use of liquid-applied waterproofing membranes beneath tile floors and walls, creating a continuous barrier against moisture. Sheet membranes, such as polyethylene or composite systems, are also installed behind backsplashes, under countertops near sinks,...

Yes, contractors can install moisture-resistant flooring in New York kitchens, and it’s one of the most effective ways to protect against spills, leaks, and humidity. Popular options include porcelain tile, which is virtually waterproof, highly durable, and available in countless styles. Luxury vinyl plank (LVP) and tile (LVT) are also increasingly used because they mimic...