Storage & Space Optimization

Turn Obstacles Into Architecture Columns and beams are unavoidable in NYC basements—but they can become features instead of eyesores. Start by wrapping structural elements into built-ins: use columns as dividers between cabinets or frame them with shelving to create symmetry. For low soffits, design coffered ceiling patterns that integrate lighting or HVAC diffusers. Keep clear...

Think Built-In, Not Add-On Basements have low ceilings and irregular corners, so storage must be integrated into architecture. Use custom millwork under stairs for drawers and cubbies; extend cabinetry along low walls with shallow (12–15”) bases. Lift tall cabinets off the floor on aluminum plinths to prevent moisture wicking and preserve visual openness. In laundry...

Hide It Beautifully, Service It Easily Mechanical equipment needs clearance, airflow, and access—not full exposure. Design built-in enclosures that double as storage while meeting service clearances. Frame mechanical walls with moisture-resistant drywall and integrate louvered or slatted doors for passive ventilation. Keep a 24″ minimum access width to the front of units and 6″ to...

Turn Constraints Into Storage Architecture Map all protrusions—columns, beam drops, cleanouts—then design wraparound built-ins that absorb those elements into a cohesive wall. Use shallower upper cabinets above beam lines and full-depth bases below to keep a clean reveal. Along long walls, run knee-wall credenzas (18–22″) with vented toe-kicks for airflow; at the stair, convert voids...

Wrap Storage Around the Room, Not Through It Keep the center open and wrap storage at the perimeter under beams and along long walls. Use knee-wall credenzas 18–22″ deep for bins and games, and full-height built-ins only on one accent wall to avoid a tunnel effect. Under-stair volumes become pull-out pantries or hanging closets for...

Plan the Room to the Ridge Place circulation and standing tasks under the ridge for headroom; reserve eaves for built-ins. A wall bed or sofa bed tucked behind a half-height partition keeps the office view clean, while a dormer desk captures natural task light. Knee-Wall Millwork That Works Choose deep drawers (not doors) in 36–54″...

Design to the Ridge, Store to the Eaves Place standing activities and clear circulation under the ridge where headroom is greatest; reserve the eaves for built-ins and benches. A furniture-first plan prevents dead corners and avoids doors swinging into travel paths. Choose visually light pieces—open-base sofas, slender-leg tables—and float them slightly off walls so slopes...

Right-Sizing the Cabinet Box In the 36–54″ knee-wall zone, drawers outperform doors because they deliver contents into the room. Target 21–24″ cabinet depth where structure allows; drop to 18–20″ in tighter bays. Drawer heights of 6–8″ (smalls), 10–12″ (folded clothes), and 14–16″ (bulky items) cover most needs. Keep a 1–1.5″ scribe to the floor and...

Design to Reach, Not Just Capacity Closets under slopes fail when rods and shelves land where you can’t use them. Map reach envelopes: hanging between 34–66″ AFF, deep drawers 12–18″ high, and pull-outs for shoes and accessories under the lowest slopes. Use tapered cabinets and angled doors to keep faces square while interiors follow the...

Design to the Slopes Sloped ceilings and knee walls punish freestanding wardrobes by wasting the wedge of space behind them. Custom built-ins convert that wedge into capacity: deep drawers on heavy-duty slides, tapered cabinets, and continuous low credenzas under eaves. Start with a furniture-first plan that reserves the ridge for standing activities and the eaves...