Seal, Insulate, and Condition The biggest energy loss in basements comes from air leaks and uninsulated surfaces. Start with air sealing at rim joists, penetrations, and utility chases. Use spray foam or rigid foam boards for continuous insulation against masonry (R-10–R-15). Add insulated subfloor panels to reduce heat loss through concrete. This creates a stable...
Balance Code Compliance With Comfort NYC energy code requires continuous insulation, efficient HVAC, and LED lighting—but comfort comes from thoughtful detailing. Start with R-10–R-15 insulation at walls (rigid or spray foam) and R-10 under floors if feasible. Air-seal all penetrations before framing, then verify with a blower-door test if available. Choose variable-speed heat pumps or...
Warm the Walls, Not the Air Basement comfort and durability come from continuous insulation that warms interior surfaces and shuts down condensation, not just thick batts in stud bays. The gold standard is rigid foam or closed-cell spray foam directly against masonry, creating a capillary break and air barrier before framing. Aim for a continuous...
Start with Durability and Moisture Management Sustainability fails if a basement needs rework after the first wet season. Prioritize vapor control (10–15 mil slab barrier), thermal breaks at rim joists, and foam-insulated foundation walls so finishes last. Choose porcelain tile or SPC LVP over solid wood to withstand humidity and reduce replacement cycles—longevity is the...
Prioritize the Envelope First Energy performance starts where heat and moisture move: the rim joist, foundation walls, and slab. Air-seal rim joists and penetrations, then insulate with closed-cell spray foam or rigid foam to eliminate thermal bridges and condensation. On masonry walls, use a continuous foam layer (not batt insulation against concrete) to keep interior...
Start with the Envelope and Loads Tighten the roofline (air sealing + code-level insulation) and run a room-by-room load calculation. If the main system has capacity, a short, well-sealed extension can work; but many NYC homes benefit from a dedicated variable-speed heat pump (ductless or slim-duct) for precise zoning, dehumidification, and quiet operation. When a...
Glazing That Works with the Roofline Pick low-U, low-SHGC, argon-filled, laminated glazing to balance winter efficiency and summer comfort. On south/west exposures, a lower SHGC prevents overheating; on north/east, a moderate SHGC preserves passive light without glare. Match frame kits to roof pitch and use the manufacturer’s pan flashing for leak-free installs. Control Daylight, Not...
Combine Layers to Hit Targets Shallow rafters are the classic attic challenge. To meet energy code without raising the roof dramatically, stack insulation types: high-density batts or spray foam in the bays plus a continuous layer that breaks thermal bridges. In re-roof scenarios, rigid foam above the deck (polyiso or GPS) with taped seams delivers...
Prioritize the Building Envelope First Nothing reduces energy use like a tight, well-insulated roofline. Start with continuous air sealing and assemblies that hit or exceed code R-values while controlling dew point. Favor unvented roof strategies with the proper exterior/interior insulation ratio, or vented assemblies with uninterrupted baffles and meticulous sealing around skylight shafts and penetrations....
Right-Sized Heat Pumps Excel in Attic Suites Modern variable-speed heat pumps are ideal for attic conversions because they modulate output to match load, provide precise temperature control, and dehumidify during sticky NYC summers. The key is a tight envelope + accurate load calc. After air sealing and roofline insulation, have your contractor perform room-by-room Manual...
